【端午游记】+雨后诺干湖
诺干湖,蒙古语为“绿色湖泊”之意,诺干湖景区,位于呼伦贝尔市新巴尔虎左旗乌布尔宝力格苏木诺干诺尔嘎查西三公里处,两伊公路(202省道)从湖边通过,北距海拉尔162公里,南距阿尔山120公里,地处中、俄、蒙国际“金三角”,北依红花尔基森林公园,西坐落于新巴尔虎草原,南靠温泉旅游胜地阿尔山,东接柴河旅游大景区。
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路上,下起了雨,这并不是我们所期望的。雨天会冷,地面会湿,露营也就成了不太美好的事情。车子缓慢行驶在国道上,而雨云就一直依依不舍地跟随着我们的车子。不知道它是为谁而来,也不知道它是为谁而哭。
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阴沉的天气,总会让人的心里无法明朗。一路上,乌云压得人心里有些发沉,本想出来透透气,却被这样的天气扰得只能闭上眼,昏昏沉沉地睡去。若是车窗能够打开,或许也可以好过一些,一直比较喜欢那种风雨之中的空气,清新凉爽,可以振奋人心。然而是不可以的,且不说车窗无法打开,即使真的打开了,猛烈的风也会把雨带进车厢,打湿所有人的衣裳。
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为了接几位在外地上车的队友,我们的车子绕了远。到达营地时,天已经快要黑了。无奈,只得偷了几张先到的队友的照片,填补一下这一段空缺。
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先到的队友们搭完了自己的帐篷,又帮还没到达的我们也搭好了帐篷。听说这件事后,同车的人都感到心中很暖。
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毕竟那么多装备,运送的过程也是比较辛苦的。而帐篷虽然好搭,但是放弃自由活动的时间去为素不相识的人搭帐篷,也不是什么人都能做得到的。
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本来一直坚持只发原创,如今却不得不偷些图来发。好在都是自己团队队友拍的,不会被责怪。
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晚饭的蒙古包很大,可容纳近千人。当然,这些人当中不全是我们的队友,也有别人家的。虽然人多,但很好分辨。不同的团队风格不同,做标识的物件也不同。
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在草原,烤全羊永远是晚餐的重点,也是全场的焦点。一头头温顺可爱的小羊,就在我们看不到的地方,被剥去了羊绒外套,抽掉了灵魂,最后出现在餐盘里。想来,这其实是件很残忍的事情。但从民族风俗的角度去看,它们同样是荣幸的,因为它们可以被献给保佑着草原的长生天,以及草原上最伟大的人。
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蒙古族的仪式,让很多人看得好奇。主持人讲过话后,照例是选王爷和王妃,不明真相的孩子们争着挤到台前,以为会有好玩的事情发生,却没想到只不过是在羊的身上划一刀,割一片,用作贡奉。酒也是如此。
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仪式结束后,每个人需要连饮三杯酒,这也是规定。上去的一些人开始后悔,没上去的人在台下偷笑。有些时候,争与不争,就是这么回事。抢到的,却不是自己想要的。
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羊已被切好,每桌派了人上前去取。举杯畅饮,杯中酒或饮料。欢呼声一片。
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民族乐器,民族语言,民族的就是世界的。
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马头琴,草原上最具代表性的乐器。每当这声音响起,人们就不由得向往着。
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载歌载舞的欢乐,感染了在座的所有人,大家一起呼喊,拍手,欢笑。
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呼麦是蒙古族人创造的一种神奇的歌唱艺术:一个歌手纯粹用自己的发声器官,在同一时间里唱出两个声部。呼麦声部关系的基本结构为一个持续低音和它上面流动的旋律相结合。又可以分为"泛音呼麦"、"震音呼麦"、"复合呼麦"等。在中国各民族民歌中,它是独一无二的。
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一夜的风雨,破坏了大家晚宴时的好心情。第二天清晨,雨停了,但寒冷仍然没有散去。身上的衣服仍然是湿的,此时最渴望的,是天快一些放晴,可以喝点暖茶,晒晒太阳。
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醒来时,每个帐篷里都是静静的,没有声音。穿得太少,也没有带可以更换的衣服,于是只能躲在帐篷里,裹着防潮垫取暖。
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早饭后,雨仍然没有停。一些队友提出要回去。从几个人到十几人再到几十人。领队尊重了队友的意见,想回去的可以坐车回去,想留下的可以和主领队茶叶一起留下。最后,一共留下了六人。我是其中之一。
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领队们忙碌地帮队友收拾帐篷
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风真的很大
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过了中午,天竟然晴了。我们剩下的人开始收拾装备。
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操心最多的永远是主领队茶叶,认识他也有几个年头了,无论何时,他都尽职尽责地考虑好一切,准备好一切,亲力亲为,很多人参加立方体的活动,就是因为相信他的为人,欣赏他的踏实稳重,这应该就是人格魅力吧。
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留下的六个队友,三个80后,三个90后,到也平均。
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风还是很大,想要把帐篷收好不是很容易。在草原的风中,外帐飘扬起来,好像降落伞。空空的内帐被风吹翻了好几次。庆幸自己的体重,不然,或许就这样被吹到哪里也说不定。又有点遗憾,如果体重再轻一些,或许还能有机会玩一下飞翔。
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雨停后,风还很冷,但已经不潮湿了。把前一夜打湿的衣服和行李扔在风里吹了一阵,也都干了。
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茶叶在认真整理余下的装备,收拾帐篷,我却又起了玩心。不由感叹自己越来越贪玩了,不过又有什么关系,选择出来玩,不就是为了让自己放松,心情愉悦么?
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并不是只有纱巾、长裙,才可以在草原上拍出美美的照片,帐篷也可以。虽然前一夜还被冷雨夜弄得心灰意冷,想要回家,此刻却全然忘记了当时的情绪,只要有可拍的照片,心里就感到愉快很多。虽然有些没正事,管他拍得好坏,拍到自己喜欢的内容,就是开心的。注:左侧的模糊是雨滴造成的。
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棉层一样的云层下,苔原地带一样的草原上,一顶没了外帐的帐篷,看起来有点孤单。昨夜,这里还有许多它的同伙,现在只剩下了它一个。
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人少,没能举行事先设定好的水枪大战、拔河等活动,但同时,自由活动的时间增加了。躺在草地上晒晒太阳,感受着风拂过脸庞,感受着宁静的氛围,也是不错的享受。
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七彩的泡泡在阳光下闪烁着,透着梦幻和童真。
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来到草原,不拍照岂不可惜?
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将砾石的睡袋穿在身上,被人问哪里来的民族服装。
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花没有拍好,但还是很好看的。
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这些照片一发到群里,先走的人们就后悔不已了。
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长发在风中有些凌乱,但不失美感
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雨后的草原真的很美
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一只傲娇并且聪明的小狗,被人叫到名字时,大多是淡定的。很少主动与人亲近。
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遇到熟人的时候,就全然没了矜持。远远听到呼唤,就飞一般地跑去。热情地跳跃着。
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看周围人那样惊奇,我却不足为奇。虽然一两年不见,却仍然记得谁曾对她好,每天喂她食物。可能这就是人们说的,狗的天性。你如何待它,它就如何待你,如年如一日,不变不移。
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牛儿悠闲地散步,品尝着大自然赐给他们的美味。
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看它们吃饭的样子,感觉很优雅。
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初生的小牛,静静地趴在那里,好奇地打量着我这个不速之客
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努力站起,摇晃着走向远方,人总要学着长大,牛也一样。
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距离有些远,有人在放马,骑的应该是摩托吧。
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最喜欢的是羊,想要拍几张近景,却被一只小黑狗驱赶了。
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毛绒绒的,很可爱,却也很护羊。围着我的小腿转了两圈后,大概是感觉我身上没有牧民的气味,便准备咬我了。不敢像对待城市里的小狗一样摸摸头,逗一逗,只得转身离开。没想到他竟然追着我不放。直到远处传来蒙语的呼唤,他才停下来,回头看着家的方向。
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淡淡的一道白色,是湖水。
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