【攀登事故报告】快挂割断绳子
Written by Jeff Jackson作者：Jeff Jackson 时间：2011年2月4日 刊登于《Rock and Ice》第191期翻译：tethys （磨溪小T）The Midnight Surf Wall at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky is one of the newer sectors in Muir Valley. Most of the routes are long and overhanging, featuring dynamic moves between spaced holds, and equipped with quickdraws. Recently, a climber started up one of the area classics, a 5.12d called Tapeworm. He clipped the first draw and climbed past it to the second bolt, but instead of clipping it, he decided to downclimb. Two feet above the first bolt, he slipped. Taking a short fall with little rope out resulted in high impact forces. Both the belayer and climber (who asked that their names not be used), described hearing a loud pop! The rope cut and the climber landed on his feet, stumbled backward and fell, hitting his head on a rock and knocking himself out. He lay on the ground bleeding from a head wound and twitching. 位于美国肯塔基州红河谷的“午夜冲浪岩壁”是Muir山谷（蜿蜒于红河谷里长约7英里的一段山谷，山体岩质为砂岩，适合攀岩、徒步等户外活动。---译者注）新开发区域中的一个。那里大部分都是长的仰角路线，以距离较远的支点之间做动态移动而闻名，路线上有事先挂好的快挂。最近，一个攀岩者攀爬那里一条5.12d名字叫做Tapeworm的经典路线，起步之后，他先把绳子挂进了第一把快挂内，然后向第二个挂片的方向攀爬，不过最后他决定不挂绳，而是下攀。他在距第一个挂片两英尺高的地方脱落冲坠。因为很大的冲击力，他下落的距离很短。据保护员和攀爬者（当事人要求不透露他们的真实姓名）描述，那一刻他们听到砰地一声！绳子被割断了，攀岩者双脚着地，向后翻滚并摔倒，头部撞击到岩石上并昏厥过去。他躺在地上，头部受伤处血流不止，浑身抽搐。The belayer had a phone and attempted to call 911, but lacked service. A third member of the party was just about to run and call for help at one of the Muir Valley rescue stations when the climber came to and said, “I guess I’m OK.”保护者掏出电话尝试拨打911急救电话，但是不在服务区内。在现场的另一个人正准备跑去Muir山谷急救中心求救，受伤的攀岩者醒过来说：“我觉得我没事。”He decided to “walk it off.” Later that evening he went to the emergency room and had his head wound stapled.他决定先“走一走”。晚上他去了急诊室并缝合了头部的伤口。The climber was at the crag climbing the next day, and is reportedly “just fine.”次日这个攀岩者又上墙了，他自己讲状态“还不错”。ANALYSIS事故分析As fixed draws are becoming more prevalent at popular sport-climbing areas, instances of ropes being “sheathed” (where the mantle of the rope is stripped away from the core) by sharply grooved carabiners are also becoming more common. Accidents involving cut ropes are rare, but not unheard-of. Kolin Powick, on his Black Diamond blog, reported hearing of a similar accident, this one in a Prague climbing gym in 2008, when a rope was cut by a sharp carabiner, also located at the first bolt.在一些受欢迎的运动攀岩地区，路线起步的第一个挂片上固定挂上快挂已经越来越普遍，绳子被快挂锋利的凹槽部分“上鞘”（即绳皮与绳心剥离）的情况也开始时有发生。绳子被割断的现象还是很罕见的，不过Kolin Powick在他Black Diamond日志里曾记录过2008年在布拉格岩馆里发生的类似事故，那次绳子也是被第一把快挂割断。The Tapeworm accident was the result of many factors, but three stand out.造成Tapeworm事故发生的原因很多，不过以下三点是突出的原因：First: the position of the first bolt invariably leads to a greater angle in the rope as the belayer stands away from the vertical plane. This angle causes more force to be exerted against the carabiner as every climber is lowered, and this force causes the rope biner on the first draw to wear faster than other draws.第一：因为保护者站在离开岩壁的地方，第一把快挂总是导致通过它的绳子弯曲成很大的拐角。这种角度导致了攀岩者下降时，施加在快挂上的作用力更大，与绳子接触的那一段钩环也比其他的要磨损更严重。Second: The shape of the carabiner plays a role in how sharp the worn edge can be. In this case, the basket of the biner was manufactured to be wide and then sharply tapered to a narrow spine. As the metal wears, the edges of the wide basket can become thin slivers. This wearing pattern can occur on any I-beam or wide-to-narrow carabiner design, and photos of the Tapeworm carabiner confirm that it was at that stage.第二：钩环磨损边缘的锋利程度与它的形状有关。在这个例子中，钩环的弯曲载重部分（basket）被设计为较宽的形状，然后急剧变为锥形与狭窄的长边相连。当发生金属磨损时，较宽的载重部分的边缘会变成薄片。这种磨损情况会发生在工字型锁或者由宽变窄的钩环上，Tapeworm事故钩环的照片证实了这一点。（以下图片为译者自网上搜集：
-
行走的雕塑
发布于 2016-05-09
1
3
